Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Summer Burger Journal, Cheeseburger Sliders with Caramelized Onion Jam and Mustard Bernaise Sauce


Ok it summer it's finally warm enough to get outside and get grilling. And what says summer grilling more than a delicious burger. Well that being said these burgers I am going to tell you about today actually came about because I needed to make a goodbye dinner for a friend of mine who was leaving the city. The weather had warmed up enough that I thought we are golden to be back up on the roof of the building and celebrate with the first al fresco dining experience of the Summer. But no Mother Nature did not see fit to give us a nice day and the rain drove the party inside. So while this is a burger recipe it it I suppose not limited to the grill.

Sliders are one of those things that are associated with all kinds of things. Diners, drive in's, old school Hamburger joints and within the last 10 years bar food. A slider is technically a mini hamburger or cheeseburger. They are usually adorned with some special toppings and served in multiple batches. One rarely eats one slider. More like 3 or more.

My first real contact with sliders came while living in the South. There is a chain of burger joint drive throughs called Crystal Burger. They are the southern version of the White Castle burger also a main stay of slider lore. While White Castle burgers are steam cooked on a grill with onions and served with ketchup. Crystal burgers are cooked with the onions and served with dill pickle chips and mustard. It's the southern flavor take on the slider. I prefer the Crystal take to White Castle but whatever.

Well there have been so many famous people making burgers that I can't even pretend that what I will bring to the table has not done somewhere in some fashion by someone else. But like when I posted my famous "Forrest Burgers" recipe found on this blog, you can bet that this and every burger recipe I ever give you will be decadent and delicious.

This one is no exception. I love a burger that has substance and is saucy and juicy. I also like a burger that is composed. That meaning the chef prepares the burger with toppings to create a flavor profile much like any other dish a chef prepares. You don't choose how you get it you just get it that way end of story. So I dressed this burger up with toppings and my "secret sauce".

It starts with a buttered and grilled till toasty brioche mini bun. The patty is cooked medium rare and blanketed with melted cheddar cheese. Then the toasted bun is garnished with a dallop of mayo, and squirt each of Catsup and of BBQ sauce, caramelized onions, and then smothered in a Bernaise that has mustard and tarragon in it.

 It's so juicy and delicious it's a crazy. And they are little guys. You can't eat too many. Or you can't eat enough!

So if you want to try your hand at something new and gourmet for a dinner party. Ramp up your burger game with these little babies. They are sure to make you very popular with your guests or family. Enjoy Ya'll!


Forrest's Mini Burger Sliders with Caramelized Onion Jam and Mustard Bernaise Sauce

For the Burgers

1 pound 80/20 ground chuck formed in 8 small patties
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
salt and pepper to taste
4 slices American or Cheddar cheese cut into 4 pieces each.

Mix meat and spices together well
Form 8 well shaped patties
Season with the S&P

Heat grill or grill pan till medium hot.
Place burgers on the grill pan and cook for about 2 to 3 mins a side for medium rare
After to have flipped the burger the first time place 2 pieces of cheese on it. When its just melting it's done remove and place on the bun.

The Buns

Buy Mini Brioche buns ( Trader Joe's, Whole foods) or mini potato rolls
Using room temperature butter lightly butter the buns
Grill the buns in a pan until they are nice and toasty the reserve
When ready to build lightly spread mayo on the bottom bun and place a smal squirt of each Catsup and BBQ sauce on the Bun. The place some of the onion Jam on the bottom bun.

Onion Jam

Cut up 1/2 of a large red onion into thin ribbons
In a pan heat equal parts oil and butter add onions cook slowly over medium high heat till soft then add 1 tablespoon each balsamic vinagar and honey
Stir into onions add some salt and stir in then reduce heat to low and slowly cook will caramelized and delicious.

Mustard Bernaise

In a bowl soften 2 Tablespoons Dried Tarragon with 3 tablespoons of hot water let sit 5 mins.
In a blender add 4 tablespoons tarragon vinegar ( if you have it if not red wine vinegar. Add 1 tablespoons chopped shallot and 1 Tablespoon Dijon Mustard add the tarragon and water and pulse till blended
Melt 3/4 of a stick of butter
With blender running slowly pour the butter into the blender
When thick and combined place in a metal bowl and if not using right away keep warm over simmering water.

To complete the sliders place the patty on the bottom bun and drape the burger in the sauce. Place top bun on and present right away to eat. Yum Yum Yum!




Tuesday, May 27, 2014

The Original California Cuisine, Sunset Magazine Remembers When.


BEFORE Alice Waters picked her first Little Gem lettuce and Wolfgang Puck draped smoked salmon across a pizza, California cuisine meant something else. 

This is the first statement in a article from the NY Times article chronicling the influence Sunset Magazine has had on informing people about what California Cuisine is all about. The article goes on to examine the original California Cuisine based largely in grilled meats, salads and avocados from the article. It's really amazing how this magazine kept up with the lifestyle and cooking trends of the largely little known but very coveted West coast lifestyle. Through the 50's and 60's the mystic of the West was something that Eastern readers could only glimpse through it's pages. And largely it helped to inform those who had moved into this state in alarming numbers during this time on how that state's culture was devleoping. Even in a sense what it meant to be a modern Californian.

There is mention of "Patio Style" Cooking being the central theme in this early 50's and 60's home food movement in California. However there are also mentions of some old-school California dishes grilled BBQ turkey, cioppino, barbecued oysters, Crab Louis and fish tacos included amongst the descriptions of Tri-tip Sirloin Santa Maria Style, patio salads with citrus and Date Milkshakes. 

The point made was in the article that unlike in the East there was an ease and casual nature to dining and entertaining in California in the 1960's. No fussy white table clothes were on the menu and no ornate china and silver set ups. Also the point was that anyone could be a Californian by embracing this new open thinking, outdoor casual way of lifestyle and cooking which was showcased non better than by Sunset Magazine. It's readership included amongst others, my Parents, who loved the style and ease which Sunset put at the forefront of their articles. Especially since we lived in warm climates where outdoor dining was a way of life and not just a special occasion. These ideas flourished in our home.

Sunset was one of the first magazine's I remember being in our house growing up. It remained the one my folks held onto. They had every volume from 1965 on in bookshelves in out house. As of late my Mother tried to give them to the local library, but sadly they were not interested and they ended up in the recycling. Before we threw them out I flipped through some of the older ones just to see what was up and made an interesting conclusion. Nothing was so radically different from the magazines I read today. Sure the stories and the articles were specific to the time but the themes and the overall ideas were the same we see in todays lifestyle magazines everywhere. 

As far as cooking is concerned I give you a recipe for your summer BBQ. that if you try will give you a little bit of the taste of the old Californian style. Make sure you use the powdered garlic and parsley cause it just won't taste right otherwise. Give it a try it's an old staple in my house growing up even through we never called it by it's proper name. Enjoy Ya'll.

Santa-Maria Style Grilled Tri-tip
Based on the original Sunset Magazine recipe served 8


2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons dried parsley
1 beef tri-tip (2 to 2 1/2 pounds), preferably with some fat on one side. ( you can find this cut at Trader Joe's a California based chain or else you will have to get your butcher to cut it for you)
1. In small bowl, mix garlic powder, salt, pepper and parsley; rub well into meat. Let stand 30 minutes at room temperature.
2. Meanwhile, soak 2 cups red oak chips in water for at least 20 minutes (optional). Prepare a medium-size fire on one side of a charcoal or gas grill. Add chips to fire, if using. Set tri-tip over fire, fat side up (with a gas grill, close lid), and brown well, 3 to 5 minutes; turn over and brown other side.
3. Move meat over area of the grill without fire, cover, and turn every 10 minutes or so, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 125 to 130 degrees, 25 to 35 minutes.
4. Place meat on cutting board to rest at least 15 minutes. Slice across the grain.
Note: Red oak chips are available online from susieqbrand.com.


Saturday, May 17, 2014

California Dreaming: Why Alice Waters is so famous for what someone else does!

You take your first step into Chez Panisse in Berkeley California and you realize that nothing you thought about this Mecca to Farm to Table prepared you for the meal you will have there. While incredible and delicious it is the mere simplicity of the food and indeed the quality of the ingredients that makes Chez Panisse an iconic dining experience.

As I traveled through California this last trip I was again struck by the amazing quality and variety of produce available to Californians. It makes the New Yorker head reel to look at the variety and quality which even with our many green markets we never see because of the climate! My friend's in San Diego got a package from their local CO.OP. which made my poor shopping baskets at the supermarkets in New York pale in comparison.

The meal at Chez Panisse was simple enough. The starter a salad of warmed blanched asparagus, roasted morel mushrooms, prosciutto, baby rocket ( Arugula) and a brilliantly lemony dressing. The Main a "Stew" of roasted lamb loin and fresh peas and carrots with a risotto cake. And dessert fresh Strawberries and an ice cream profitole. Delicious, fresh and simple simple simple. But what made it so good were the ingredients. That's the magic os Chez Panisse. Simple preparation of deliciously fresh fresh fresh food. No spice profile, no ridiculous preparations, no smoke and mirrors, just amazing ingredients.

So for a moment during and after the meal I sat and pondered how Alice Waters has become an icon in the food world. I have read her books. No super fancy tricks there, just straight forward preparations. Elegant for sure. High end definitely. But simply letting food speak for itself while enhancing it's natural qualities with spices and preparations seemed genius to me somehow. I somehow wondered how this was so different and how we as a country had gotten away from this knowledge as we slid into a abyss of Applebee's and TGI Friday's food preparations soaked in salt and oil and lacking any finesse. Not to say those places are all bad. But I will say kinda bad. They certainly represent a commercial food engine using frozen foods and commissary driven preparations to deliver standards and a consistent product. But is it good, well if I am honest in a word, no. Is it all bad, no but it's rarely good or good for you.

So Alice Waters is really famous for what some farmer does. I mean she didn't grow the food. The meat, dairy products and produce that enter her kitchens are the fruit of someone else's labor. But what she and her chefs do is prepare them in such a way that no one can miss the impact their quality has. And she is famous for championing this trend. That's her real fame. Reminding us that good food is better in every way for us. Just like out forefathers knew, but never thought about because it was always there.

So I have some new inspiration for my own cooking at home. Not that I will pretend that I don't enjoy convenience foods and that I will never eat at Red Lobster again ( cause I will ) but at least in more ways and at more times I want to be aware of cooking things that speak for themselves and find simpler preparations.

I have no recipe today just these thoughts. As we progress towards the summer and grilling season I will endeavor to find some fresh recipes lighter and built around natural flavors. See you then.

Friday, May 9, 2014

Napa Valley and the best Pork Chop I have ever had....Mongolian Pork Chop from Mustards Grill!



Napa Valley. Oh the visions it can bring to mind. Long lazy roads and green and brown hills covered with trees and grass. Fields of grape trees and arbors laden heavy with grapes juicy and ready to give up their nectar. Wine flowing in covered and shady tasting rooms and patios and the smell of wood grills cooking meats and vegetables fresh form local farms and fields.

Grilling really is a singular smell there with all the apple wood casting it's scented purfume through the air. It fills every corner of the small towns around dinner time and really makes one hungry for meat. Yes that's right wine and meat is a very good combination. Tasty to say the least.

I recently visited Napa with my brother and sister in law and we had a really amazing time. We ate lunch at the famous Rutherford Grill and then went to a private tasting at Hall vineyards where we were treated to samplings of many of their delicious and richly aged wines. Very good indeed. And after picking up some wine to go we traveled back towards the San Francisco area and stopped just inside of Napa at Mustards Grill for dinner.

Now I had eaten at Mustards many years ago and had the opportunity to try their signature dish. So when I heard we were going to Mustards I announced to my Brother and Sister in Law that I had been there before and remembered how good the Pork chop was, In fact I said I remember it being really good. Well funny to see upon arrival that the pork chop is the most famous thing on the menu. And they have served over a million. And there is a reason for this. Because it's amazingly good! What's particularly good are the asian spices used to make the chop's marinade and the sauce all mixed up with traditionally western flavored side dishes like red cabbage and mashed potatoes.

I loved this dish also because of the name. For me it conjures up memories of "Mongolian BBQ" as form of cooking done at restaurants of the same name. As a boy my family did a lot of things offered on the bases as entertainment. One of the rare treats was when we would go to the Mongolian BBQ night at one of the local officers clubs. There you would select your meal from a cold food bar, meat veggies etc. Then you would carry it to a cooking station where it was cooked atop what looked like a metal kettle drum the size of an oil barrel with fire under it.

This pork chop recipe is perfect for your up coming bbq season. It's not mine but I mean to own it! Try it and be inspired!

CHINESE-STYLE MUSTARD SAUCE:
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup mustard powder, such as Colman's
  • 2 egg yolks








Put the sugar and mustard in the top of a double boiler and mix with a whisk. When well combined, whisk in the egg yolks and vinegar. Cook over simmering water, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, until it is thick enough to form ribbons when drizzled from the spoon. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool. When cool, fold in the creme fraiche. Keep refrigerated until needed. Makes about 2 cups.


Mongolian Pork Chop from Mustards Grill

  
  • Six 10-ounce center-cut double pork chops
  • 1 cup hoisin sauce
  • 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves and stems, minced
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons tamari soy sauce
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons black bean chilesauce, such as Lee Kum Kee
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • 1 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco
  • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
  • 1 scallion, white and two-thirds of the green parts, minced
  • Braised red cabbage and mashed potatoes, for serving
  • Trim the excess meat and fat away from the ends of the chop bones, leaving them exposed. Put the pork chops in a clean plastic bag and lightly sprinkle with water to prevent the meat from tearing when pounded. Using the smooth side of a meat mallet, pound the meat down to an even 1-inch thickness, being careful not to hit the bones. Alternatively, have your butcher cut thinner chops and serve 2 per serving. 

    To make the marinade, combine the hoisin sauce, cilantro, soy sauce, sherry vinegar, rice vinegar, oil, sugar, black bean chile sauce, ginger, garlic, hot sauce, pepper and scallions in a bowl and mix well. Coat the pork chops liberally with the marinade and marinate for 3 hours, or up to overnight, in the refrigerator 

    Preheat the grill to medium-high heat. Place the chops on the grill for 5 minutes on each side, rotating them a quarter turn after 2 or 3 minutes on each side to produce nice crosshatch marks. It's good to baste with some of the marinade as the meat cooks. As with all marinated meats, you want to go longer and slower on the grill versus shorter and hotter, because if the marinated meat is charred, it may turn bitter. The pork is ready when it registers 139 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer. 

    Serve the pork chops with braised red cabbage and mashed potatoes. Offer Chinese-Style Mustard Sauce on the side for dipping. 

Friday, April 4, 2014

A Hawaiian Style BBQ treat, Huli Huli Chicken, To everything turn turn turn.....



Huli Huli Chicken is a Hawaiian treat for the upcoming Spring and Summer months not to be missed. Huli-Huli Chicken is one of those great "only-in-Hawaii" foods. When we moved to Hawaii, because my Father got stationed here, we were embarking on a culinary and cultural journey that was hard to imagine. Hawaii was probably one of the most ethically mixed places one could imagine. No where was this more evident that at the Church we came to call home for the four years we lived there. Chinese and Japanese, Filipino, Tongan, Korean, Hawaiians, Black, Hispanic and of course White people. It was a vibrant community of faith and a great congregation for a young family such as my Parents had. We learned a lot about many cultures and cultural traditions and culinary traditions through our Church. Enhancing not only our souls but our temporal lives as well. 

The Women in the household, my Mother and Grandmother ( her Mother who had come to live with us) also made inroads in the greater community beyond the Naval Base where we lived. For example my Mother became active in the community lobbying for better television programing for children. She launched an entire campaign to get the local stations to carry Captain Kangaroo. Meanwhile, my Grandmother helped found the first official Senior Citizen organizations while in Hawaii, the Silver Bells. She had some excellent experiences through fellowship, food and travel which really enhanced her life. And got to help a lot of people connect who otherwise never would have. 

One of the hallmarks of living and being a part of a vibrant church was the potluck fellowship dinners that seemed to happen often as I recall. My family certainly got a lot of exposure to various types of foods from various cultures. Oh no ordinary church supper foods here. No! Here there were Lumpia, which are Filipino egg rolls and Kimchi beef dishes along with amazing fried rices. These were of course peppered by the normal mainland dishes offered up by the naval wives and other folks like fried chicken, green bean casserole, rolls and and array of salads. Not to mention all the baked goods, Jello molds and sweets form various households. All in all an amazing introduction to church potluck suppers I must say!

One other element of food which was introduced by way of this church experience was a method used to fundraise. That method I am referring too and which was used often as a fundraising platform was to host a big bbq dinner an sales event which would sell something called Huli Huli chicken. Now Huli means turn in Hawaiian. And that was appropriate. For the method used a large roadside grill to grill the chickens in a large rotating cage on a spit. Great clouds of dark charcoal smoke engulfed the grills as they would turn in the parking lot of the church slowly roasting the marinated birds to perfection. 

Huli Huli chicken was the brain child of one man according to him. You see in 1955, Ernest Morgado of Pacific Poultry barbecued his version of teriyaki chicken for a farmers gathering. 
The chicken was such a hit, it became a favorite Hawaii fundraiser, raising perhaps millions over the ensuing years for schools, churches, softball teams and hula halau (hula groups).

Huli-Huli chicken all but disappeared after Morgado legally claimed his rights to the trademark, and started marketing a bottled sauce under that name.

Of course, you can still buy Huli-Huli-style chicken in the Islands, practically anywhere you see billows of great-smelling smoke emanating from a large roadside grill. It won’t be called Huli-Huli Chicken. But that's pretty much what it is.


This is a marinade recipe just eyeball it but these are good starting measurements.

The recipe is enough for about three chickens, split in half.  You can use chicken pieces which is what I usually use. Marinate your chicken for at least a half-hour up to 3 hours or even overnight.
                               

                               1/2 cup pinapple juice
                               1/3 cup ketchup
                               1/3 cup soy sauce

                               1/4 cup brown sugar
                               1/4 cup honey
                               1/4 cup sherry
                               
1-2 Tbsp. sesame oil
                               1-2-more pieces ginger root, crushed
                               3 cloves garlic minced
                               Worchestershire sauce to taste
                               Sriracha or Asian chili paste (or red pepper flakes) to taste
                               Lemon juice about 1/2 a lemon

Brush the chicken with the remaining marinade while cooking over a grill. And don't forget to huli the chicken.

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Party Shortcuts: Hummus Dip a New Way to Serve up a Old Favorite


Ok! Ok! I have a confession to make. I love hummus. I mean who doesn't really. And I know that I could drone on and on about how to make hummus and what no,t but really there are so many good varieties of the stuff out there in the grocery case why put yourself through the effort. ( Although making it at home in bulk is actually cheaper)

So what could you possibly do or say on a food blog post about hummus. Well only this, and I know it's a cheap shot not in the vein of my usual recipe profile but this is a super easy and super quick way to up your entertaining repertoire. Plus it adds dairy to an otherwise vegan dish. Which you might not like but if you do, you will like this a lot.

To make this dip you simply take a container of hummus and a container of greek yogurt, stir them together with a few glugs of olive oil and some salt place in a bowl garnish with more olive oil and some pine nuts or aleppo pepper and viola! An amazing dip. Serve with pita triangles and you have a party.

Hope you enjoy this easy tip Ya'll!

Recipe ( if you can all it that )

1 16 oz. container of Hummus
1 8 oz. container
Good quality olive oil
Salt
Toasted Pine nuts
Aleppo Pepper flakes
Some parsley chopped or dried for garnish

Stir together and add salt to taste, then garnish with more olive oil and the pine nuts and or pepper flakes.


Friday, March 14, 2014

St. Patty's Day Foods Bangers and Mash an Irish Tradition




So we are getting ready for St. Patty's day in NYC. It's a big holiday here in these parts. So this year I am combing two for my favorite things, sausages and mashed potatoes. Well not just ay Mashed potatoes but my potatoes Colcannon a traditional Irish mashed potato preparation which I have posted about before but will include again just because I think some of you might not have seen this one.

Bangers are the traditional term for sausages in Ireland and to some extent in the United Kingdom. Irish bangers are mostly pork sausages very mildly seasoned and served up grilled often with an onion pan sauce. Here in the States at Trader Joe's they sell these lovelies around the time that St. Patty's gets going. Here they are:


 Basically you fry them up in a little oil and serve them up hot and juicy. The traditional pairing as I said is with Mashed potatoes!

Now I love mashed potatoes. They are probably on the scale of one to ten in the top 9 percentile of the foods I love. I have had them in so many ways I cannot even tell you. My friend John makes them with rosemary and lots of cream cheese. I love them loaded like at Vickery's my favorite bar restaurant in Charleston, and I love them whipped into perfection with lots of butter and cream like at a fine French restaurant.

Now I am supposedly a little Irish on some level, what with my father's family coming from the English and German stock they did. Irish is always in the mix there somewhere I suppose. But whether or not one is Irish or not St. Patricks Day is a fun and rowdy time for all. I mean let's face it major U.S. cities go as far as to dye their rivers green for the holiday! I mean people get very into this celebration. I for one find it a little bit too much as I grow older, but I can appreciate the good time.

Now Potatoes Colcannon or "white headed potatoes" as there are known from lore in Ireland are a dish which normally contains potatoes and cabbage and onions and maybe scallions and of course loads of butter! So when I set out from that point I thought about what I do and don't enjoy about the idea of cooked cabbage. I think maybe it's from having too much boiled cabbage growing up but I sort of don't fancy it. However, I am intrigued by how the two elements of mashed potato and the cooked cabbage made such a great dish when I first tried it at a Hillstone restaurant. However I knew after all this time and the foodie things I have experienced that if I were to make them, I could up the anty.

My thought processes about this made me think about two things. I have read that colcannon can be made with Kale. I like Kale. So I thought why not work with that. The second thing I thought about was that I like green foods. So if I were to make colcannon I would like it to be a little more green than the version I had at Cherry Creek Grill. Now I have expressed before in the blog my love of colored foods. Foods that take on a different color shade due to some emulsion of another food or addition of herbs etc. are so great to me. Great to me from a taste standpoint first, but also from a composition standpoint when talking about putting foods together on a plate. So I wanted to make a greener spicey and more flavorful version of the dish I loved so much when I had it the first time, whew...not a short order!! Cause why.....Hillstone rocks but here it goes!!

My first inclination was to take example from one of the Chefs at work who created gorgeous green basil ( not pesto ) whipped potatoes a couple of years back for the Spring menu that year. He told me the trick was to blanche the basil so that even when it was added to the warm potatoes it would retain it's green color and not turn a pasty brown. An old culinary trick but an effective one. Next I thought about my ingredient list. I already had the Kale, but why stop there. So I added for the onion more green power, leeks and scallions. And for a bit of a kick a bit of garlic for even more added fun. For the consistency I decided that buttermilk would do a better job and flavor than just cream and of course lots of butter.

To insure the dish had both color and texture I decided that blanching the greens quickly then pureeing them with some buttermilk and butter would be the emulsion that would color and flavor my colcannon nicely. Then for some texture a few reserved scallions for garnish as well as a big "knob" of butter to finish off the dish. Sounds yummy. You bet! So enjoy trying this and Happy St Patty's Day.

Potatoes Colcannon with Leeks and Kale

Ingredients
4 or 5 good sized Yukon gold or golden yellow potatoes scrubbed and diced into pieces
handful of salt
2 leeks cleaned light green and white parts only
2 cups chopped kale packed tightly
1 large bunch scallions thinly sliced on the bias 1/2 cup reserved for garnish
1 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup sour cream
1 stick butter cut up
1 tablespoon minced garlic
salt and pepper to taste

Method

Place potatoes in a heavy bottomed pot with salt and bring to a boil
Cook till potatoes are easily pierced with a fork
Then remove from heat and hold warm.
Meanwhile bring another pot of water to a boil
Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl.
Add kale and leeks and blanche quickly until the kale turns bright green then remove from the boiling water  about 4 to 5 mins and place into an ice bath in a large bowl to stop the cooking.
Drain on paper towels and set aside.
Place greens into a blender with the scallions and blend with 1/4 cup buttermilk and 1/4 stick of room temperature butter
Blend until pureed and still a little chunky (ie. not thin think texture).
Open potato pot lid and add the emulsion mashing the potatoes until mashed add sour cream and 1/4 stick butter salt and pepper to taste and the garlic.
Mash and stir till well combined. If not loose enough add the buttermilk a little bit at a time till you have the consistency of whipped mashed potatoes.

To serve place the potatoes in a large serving bowl and garnish with the remaining butter and scallions or serve in small bowls and place a knob of butter in each and garnish with the scallions and serve with grilled bangers! Happy St. Patty's Day!

Enjoy!!

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Cream of Artichoke Soup or "California Dreamin" on such a Winters Day



This weather has been really getting to everyone up here in NYC this winter. I think everyone is ready for a little springtime relief. But I am not waiting till then. I am taking matters into my own hands and having a little California Dreaming cooking moment right now. That's right just like the song by the Mama's and the Papa's although I prefer the updated Beach Boys version.

All the leaves are brown and the sky is grey
I've been for a walk on a winters day
I'd be safe and warm if I was in L.A.
California dreamin', on such a winters day.


Whether you know it or not most of the Artichokes grown here in the US come from California. In fact the town of Castroville has the self-proclaimed title of "center of the universe". It's committed when it comes to this bulb of the sun flower cousin that is so tasty, in fact the town even holds an annual festival for the artichoke.

And I love artichokes. Oh yes I do. In fact when I was about 3 I opened the refrigerator door and pulled out a jar of marinated artichokes and consumed the whole thing. An act which promptly had me break out in a rash and required a trip to the Doctor's office. Needless to say I don't remember that too well but to this day I have an undying love of the artichoke in all of it's culinary incarnations.

So truth be told this recipe did not come about on it's own. I had a couple of bags of frozen artichoke hearts lying around and decided they needed to be cooked. So in researching what to do with them I came across an article about a James Beard award winning restaurant in California called Duarte's. They are one of 5 to 10 restaurants in the country dubbed a "classic" by the esteemed James Beard Foundation. Oh yeah did I mention they have been around for 118 years. That's pretty awesome sounding. So in my readings I found that they had a famous recipe for cream of artichoke soup. Well I am a sucker for a creamy anything and I love old classic places so my interest was peaked. Well it could not be simpler. There were a few recipes out there on the web for this soup but I think I got one that's spot on. It's not complicated but wow is it good. While it is vegetarian it is not low calorie, sorry. I suppose you could make it without the cream since you add it at the end ( which I actually did, but was not as good so I added the cream.).  Eat this with some crusty bread and a fresh green salad and you have a Californian style meal that's sure to satisfy.

Duarte's Tavern Cream of Artichoke soup.
Recipe based roughly on various versions of this soup.
Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

3 tbsp. butter
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 lb. frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and roughly chopped

1 cup dry white wine
3 cups chicken stock
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup grated parmesan ( optional )
Lemon wedges, for serving

Method

Heat butter in a saucepan over medium heat.
Add garlic and onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 8 minutes.
Add wine
Add artichokes; cook, stirring, until soft, about 3 minutes.
Add stock; bring to a boil. 
Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until artichokes are very tender, about 20 minutes. 
Transfer stock and vegetables to a blender; puree until smooth. 
Return to saucepan, add cream ( and cheese if using ) and the lemon juice, and bring to a simmer over medium heat 
Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced a little, about 15 minutes. 
Season with salt and pepper, and serve with lemon wedges and crusty bread on the side.

Friday, February 28, 2014

Michigan Crack Coffee Cake and a Storied Wedding

Weddings are something that can bring out the best and worst in people both individually and collectively. As a caterer and Event manager I have seen my share of Brides, Mothers and Fathers acting out in the most insane and inappropriate of manners. True Bride-zillas I have only seen twice but the stories are varied and amazing.

Drunks, fights and screaming matches on the dance floor are par for the course. And let's not forget just plain old bad taste taken to the extreme on someone's special day. In short I hate weddings but I am kinda drawn to them because like a train wreck you just can't take your eyes off of them. Over the course of the years I have had friends ask me to help with their weddings and with one exception I have always politely declined. I just would never want to be responsible for one of my friend's special days. Too much pressure and the possibility of ruining a friendship, no thank you.

The most amazing story is from a wedding which was designed by a fellow in NYC, who we will call Eric. He's a great guy and very lovely to work with. This story started apparently when he was designing the wedding with the family. They were spending untold amounts of money on this wedding and during the planning process it became apparent the Bride was not very engaged in the whole thing. Instead of the usual involved, hands on manner most Brides take, this one simply did not seem to care if it was, "that shade of pink" or "that flower arrangement". Her mother did of course. Spending tons of cash to ensure a spectacle deserving her status and her daughters station. But the Bride was non plussed about the whole thing and this made Eric slightly suspect.

Well the big day came. The Pierre Hotel on Fifth Avenue had never looked so grand. The flowers, the music and the decor for the ceremony alone had cost a fortune. The Parents greeted their endless guest list as they arrived and waited for the ceremony to start. Eric went upstairs to check on the Bride who had strangely asked to be alone while she prepared not wanting the company of her entourage of dressers and bridesmaids.

As he approached the hotel room he could see that the door was slightly ajar, a strange sign he thought. He knocked. No response. He called out still no response. He slowly pushed the door open revealing the rooms contents. The Bride was no where to be found but on the bed was the dress and atop it a note and her ring. He lifted up the note and read these words, " Sorry Abe, I can't go through with it. Here's your ring back, Claire". Eric's heart sank into his shoes. There were 400 people waiting downstairs and the Bride was obviously not coming down. Oh Shit!

So he went downstairs and pulling the Groom and the Father of the Bride aside informed them gently of what was going on. The Groom was livid and was whisked away to a private room by his groomsmen with a bottle of brown liquor. The Father of the Bride seemed unmoved calm even. Eric explained that he needed to inform his guests, suggesting that perhaps the verbiage should be something akin to "I regret to inform you but my daughter has a had change of heart thank you for coming etc etc.". The Father shook his heard and said " Yeah Yeah Yeah....Got it". He then mounted the stage and took the mic hitting on it..."is this thing on".  Then he addressed the crowd. "I want to thank you all for coming today, to be with us, we spent a lot of money on this wedding and you can all go to the bar since it's paid for.... but there's no ceremony happening.... because my F&*%ing daughter FLED! Thanks!"

Now that's a wedding story!

Now as I said I have only helped one friend with a wedding and that would be my roommate of many years in NYC, Cristin Hubbard. Cristin is a Broadway actor and an amazing vocalist. She was also practically family. So when she became engaged I agreed to help put the reception together for her.

The wedding was set in upstate Michigan near the Sleeping Bear national seaside on the coast of northern Michigan. A fantastic place of natural wonder. The natural beauty aside the charm of the beach houses and the towns and the lovely natives were enough to entrance. It was a whole week of wedding activities with about 30 to 50 people, mostly family, participating. Cook outs on the beach at night followed by bonfires and sing alongs. Day trips in canoes and kyaks or antiquing. And a BBQ dinner after lake swimming and sun bathing.  A Buffet dinner at the house on the first night let to mornings spent over amazing breakfasts at the Bed and Breakfast.

This of course was coupled with the fact that I had agreed to help design and run the wedding. Her friend Mark also had agreed to help so between the two of us we came up with a plan. We visited the sight for the reception which was a rustic lodge building in a Church camp nearby the beach house she had spent every summer in growing up. A very connected and emotionally grounded choice, just like Cristin. Solid and soulful it hit the mark providing the perfect backdrop for a very special person's, special day. We visited the caterer, helped tweek a few menu items and service points and offered up my help the day of.

So then Mark and I armed with 3000 dollars in cash her father had given us set out to design and decorate the old Church Camp lodge for the reception. Aside from almost killing each other in the process we did an amazing job I think. White tuille and white christmas lights, flowers from a friends garden, sea glass and candles, blue, green, white and grey linens all came together to make a wonderful picture.

But it was Cristin, walking down the aisle of the church of her summer youth,  a beautiful family quilt adorning the altar, that really was the star of this wedding. She was the most stunning of Brides. The wedding and reception in their elegant simplicity were amazing. But the love so evident for these two people filling the room was the highlight of my experience of that wedding. I was moved beyond words. Hoping in my own heart that someday I might feel how she and her husband must have felt as the center of so much loving devotion. For after all, when the pomp and superficial things are stripped away, it's the love that makes a Wedding real. No show necessary if that is present. It speaks volumes louder than any floral arrangement or buffet dinner ever could.

So what has this to do with coffee cake you might ask? Well I discovered this recipe while staying at the bed and breakfast for this wedding. It's a simple almost stupid recipe and not an unknown or uncommon one. But I think if you try it you will agree it's addictive and ridiculously good! So I offer up with memories of weddings large and small. Memories of my dear friend from Michigan and this recipe. Enjoy Ya'll!

"Bob King Cake"

2 small tubes refrigerator buttermilk biscuits OR 1 tube Pillsbury Grands buttermilk biscuits 

3 Tbsp. butter melted
1/2 cup pancake syrup not real maple!
1/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped pecans

Place all ingredients in a pan and melt together over low heat 
Place in the bottom of a bundt pan
layer biscuits overlapping in the pan
Bake in a 375 degree oven for 20 to 30 mins or until nice and brown on top
Invert onto a plate and yum yum yum!



Thursday, February 20, 2014

Pimento Cheese: My favorite Cheesy Southern Snack Indulgence

Pimento Cheese is probably one of the most outstandingly Southern dishes that is sort of unknown in other parts of the country. It's fame has been spread by the Lee Brothers and other evangelists of Southern cuisine but to some extent it's still the lesser known outside of the South than other better known dishes. Some folks would consider it as iconic as deviled eggs and Fried Chicken and it certainly has it's own camps of people who debate what goes into it. But regardless no one would debate that it is definitely up there are something that one should know how to make as a Southern cook.

I grew up around pimento cheese which is sometimes referred to as the "Caviar of the South" or "House Pate". It's at it's best a delicious concoction of simple ingredients which somehow when taken together are amazing. It's a version of a fortified cheese, or Formage Forte, a French concoction created as a way to use up odd bits of cheese. Formage Forte uses wine and other flavor elements to make a spread that can be served with bread or crackers. Pimento Cheese uses Mayo and A Spanish red pepper and spices to really create a spread which actually is more than just a spread and can be used in sandwiches and other cooked foods using cheese as an ingredient such as grits or casseroles. While there is debate as to what goes into it like "is there more than cheddar cheese?" "is there sour cream?" And also "is there green onion or grated white onion or is it just onion powder?".  I think almost everyone can agree that no matter how it's made it's mostly just delicious.

So many Southerner's I know, who cook, have a story like this one. When I was first living in New York City as an actor, my roommate at the time and I threw a cocktail party. And since we didn't have any real money for fancy foods for the some 20 people we had invited, I decided to make a bunch of pimento cheese sandwiches. I made them on white bread and cut off the crusts to be fancy and the cut the sandwiches in 4's to make little "tea" sandwiches. I made a lot of them. And that with bowls of potato chips and onion dip was the food. Don't you know every single one of those sandwiches disappeared. They were really a hit.

Now when I make pimento cheese I make sure that I have extra because without a doubt it will be the first thing to go. Now my recipe has changed many times over the years. I mean sometimes Pimento cheese is just that dip you make with whatever cheese you have on hand. And sometimes you change the rules up. For instance I never put cream cheese in mine before a friend made me her recipe, now I do. And I add little things into mine now that I think really ramp up the flavor and the texture. Recently I was at Husk Restaurant in Charleston and has their pimento cheese appetizer in in the bar,
wow was it good, really good! They used fancy peppers and jalapenos, smoked paprika and local cheese. I still use the Spanish pimentos from the jar but my my my....I think that's what's so good. So take a minute and check this out and if you want to try this for your next party you can be a hit if you put this on your menu. Hope Ya'll enjoy!

Forrest's Pimento Cheese Recipe

1 1/2 cup shredded extra sharp Yellow Cheddar cheese
1 cup shredded Jack cheese
7 ounces room temperature cream cheese
1/2 cup Dukes Mayonaise
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 good shakes of Worchestershire Sauce
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
2 tablespoons jarred jalapeno pepper slices minced
1 4 ounce jar pimentos drained and diced and 2 tablespoons of juice reserved
1 tablespoon of pickle juice
S&P to taste

Basically place everything in a big bowl and mix mix mix till combined. Chill about an hour before serving.




Here's a little video for your viewing pleasure

 http://vimeo.com/31515064





Thursday, February 13, 2014

Hoover's Chicken in Every Pot Pie, A Favorite Winter Comfort Food Taken to New Heights


President Herbert Hoover promised back in the 1930's while on the campaign trail that he would put a "chicken in every pot". Well that promise didn't come through, but this recipe for chicken pot pie really does. I mean, who doesn't love a pot pie. All hot and crusty and bubbling with goodness. And since Mother Nature has seen fit to really give us a real winter this year I thought it would be a good thing to actually revisit my pot pie recipe and whip it up for a little winter dinner last night.

I was pressed for time and wanted to be able to enjoy myself during the get together and thought well just make something you can throw in the oven and forget about. So while shopping at Trader Joes on a Saturday ( which I never do because the line literally wraps around the entire store ), I thought pot pie is easy ( I think? ). So I ran around the store grabbed what I needed and got in that line. It wasn't that bad actually. In fact it was quite a quick trip to the cash register. In the meantime I looked around at other people's baskets. I always find it interesting to see what other people are buying and eating.

So what makes Pot Pie so popular with us in the US. nowadays? It's simple uncomplicated food which somehow connects us to our roots. It evokes thoughts of a simpler time perhaps and makes us relax in a world that is far too modern sometimes. I think it is also an easy food. One not associated with trying too hard. Yet even the humble pot pie can be elevated and enhanced and I set out to do just that.

I didn't really do much just added a few things like bacon fat and herbed cheese to the sauce to enhance the flavor. I added some chicken bullion to the chicken broth which I got from my onion soup recipe to ramp up the flavor.  I also chose to add the wine at the end and let it cook out in the oven. That touch changed dramatically the overall flavor and really made it better than my usual. But all in all it's Chicken Pot Pie and it's just a good recie to try if you want to make it. So enjoy and give it a try Ya'll

Forrest's Best Ever Chicken Pot Pie

What you will need:

2 pre-made pie crusts defrosted and rolled out using a small plate measure 4 circles and cut out and reserve in the fridge.

Then you will need 3 to 4 cups of cooked cubed chicken or shredded Rotisserie Chicken
1 1/2 cups chopped onions
1 1/2 cups cubed carrots
1 1/2 cups chopped celery
10 oz sliced mushrooms
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon bacon fat ( optional if you don't have use another tablespoon of butter)
1/2 cup flour plus 3 tablespoons
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh or dried parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
4 cups warm chicken broth
2 chicken bullion cubes
1 package Boursin Herbed Cheese
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 cup white wine ( not Chardonnay)
Maldon sea salt
pepper
1 egg yolk mixed with a little water to make an egg wash

Method:

Preheat oven to 425

In a large pot melt the butter
Add the veggies except mushrooms and saute till just soft
Season with S&P ad fresh and dried thyme
Add the 3 tablespoons of butter and stir cooking about 3 mins
Combine the bullion with the broth keep warm
Add half the bullion stock mixture to a bowl and slowly whisk in the flour to make a "slurry"
Add the other stock to the pot with the veggies bring to a high simmer and the flour and veggie mixture
Slowly add the slurry mixture with a whisk stirring to combine and bring to boil then reduce heat and stir till it thickens up stir to avoid clumps.
If too thick add a little water
Add the Boursin and melt in till combined
Add the wine
Add the Mushrooms
Add the Chicken
Hold warm

In 4 individual baking dishes divide the filling to the top of each dish
Top with the crust and crimp the edges
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and press in with your fingers.
Brush with the egg wash
Make a small slit in the top

Place on a baking tray cover with foil to protect from spillage
Bake for 25 mins or until the crust is golden brown and done
Let sit for 5 mins then serve
Enjoy!






Wednesday, January 29, 2014

The Galloping Gourmet, TV Cooking Lessons and Coquiles St. Jacques, Seafood Comfort Food 101.

When I was very young I can remember watching a number of programs which were pivotal in my early education about food and cooking. First of course was the French Chef with Julia Child. And secondly was Graham Kerr the Galloping Gourmet!

Food TV back in those days was anything but the slick prefab, over produced shows one finds on today's Food Network. In fact they were really do it yourself slap together shows which operated mostly on the prose or personality of the person in front of the camera.

No one was more of a personality than Graham Kerr. He was loved by many fans and hated by many in the food industry for exactly the same reason. His outlandish antics, on camera drinking, and his cavalier approach to fine cuisine got him raved or reviled. Whether you liked him or not you had to admit that he was a showman. Many critics pointed to the lack of culinary depth or even his rather casual approach to dishes they deemed as sacred cows in the cooking arena. If there was a use for clarified butter he would find it that was for sure! His connecting places, particularly one's he had traveled to, with dishes he would showcase was both cutting edge and clever. He was the original food network cooking and travel show. He granted his American audience a peek into the culinary traditions  from the European continent to South America and beyond.

A few years ago as the the fledgling Cooking Channel was launched I again got to enjoy a brief period of reruns of the Galloping Gourmet on television. It reinforced all my memories about this show. It was such a time piece in terms of set, production, decor and clothing. The design elements alone were so period. The colors and wallpaper used in the set, the furniture,  and even the suits he wore all evoked faded memories from my early childhood. I remembered adults dressing and places and homes looking  like the set and costuming of the show. However it was the show's content that talked mostly about where we are as a culture now compared to those " good ole days" broadcasts.

Today as Americans are bombarded in the media by endless slick, over produced, formula driven shows or publications one forgets the simpler past. Today's shows, tried out in market test groups or tied to cyclical trends, are crafted to create a buzz and evoke interest amongst a population now well exposed to cuisines from every nook and cranny of the globe

Back then Graham Kerr did not have that media advantage. In fact if anything he relied upon his charm, wit, foreign background and culinary knowledge to inform and expose cuisines new to the once insular US. population. A nation informed mostly by regional and immigrant cuisine exposure. A nation which after the second world was finally accepting and embracing international identity and was hungry for broader knowledge of the world they now felt connected to.

That's what made the Galloping gourmet such a great show for folks back then. It took them places they had never been and opened their minds to new things. Just as shows today continue to try and find the newest food trends and most interesting chefs dishes.

So one of the recipes that I love from the original Galloping Gourmet show is Mr. Kerr's version of Coquiles St. Jacques, a French scallop dish, which I have had many times in it's more traditional form. He adds potatoes to this dish which is traditionally made with just scallops and a sauce.

Now I grew up with my Mother's recipe for this dish from the "The Sunset for Entertaining Cookbook" printed in 1968. Yes, Surprise! I love old recipes from old cook books as well as the new ones from today's cookbooks. When I was growing up my Grandmother or my Mother would occasionally make these for a dinner party and less occasionally for a family meal. They used scallop baking shells which look like large flat shells but take the place of using a ramekin of small baking dish. They always looked so elegant and amazing I thought as a small boy. Bubbly with seafood, wine, cream, mushrooms and cheese. Hot right from the oven and sprinkled with chopped parsley and ready to bring to the table.

When I found Mr. Kerr's recipe I loved it because it takes these little babies and pushes them right through the roof with the addition of a velvety mashed potato blanket for the scallops. It sort of takes this dish and turns it into perfect cold weather comfort food, well more than sort of. With the addition of the potatoes it is sort of like a scallops shepherds pie. Which is a little English twist on a very French dish! Way to go Mr. Kerr!! So here is the recipe. Give it a try next time you want to make some winter comfort food. Yum!
Enjoy Ya'll!

4 to 5 good sized yukon gold potatoes cut ( about 2 lbs.)
2 tablespoons cream
4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon chopped dill
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup white wine
1 pound sea scallops ( large )
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 pound sliced white mushrooms
2 tablespoon chopped shallot or white onion
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 cup grated cheese ( parmesan or Gruyere any strong hard cheese

Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender. Drain and while warm mash with the cream butter and salt and pepper. Stir in the herbs and the paprika. Hold warm on the side.

In a large frying pan heat the stock and the wine till almost boiling, add the scallops and cook for about 3 to 5 mins depending on the size don't over cook or the scallops will be rubbery. Remove and hold on the side.

In a pot melt the butter add the flour and cook about 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly add the poaching liquid stirring in the add the milk and then bring to a boil, reduce heat and and simmer till the sauce thickens about 10 to 15 mins.

In the frying pan add the onions and cook till soft, add the mushrooms lemon juice and paprika and cook till soft then add the mixture to the sauce.

In 4 individual gratin dishes (or in a medium casserole dish if you don't have small dishes)  divide the scallops and the divide the sauce over them. Cover each with the potatoes and then top with the cheese.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake in the oven at 350 for 8 mins then turn on the broiler and broil till the tops are browned and golden. Serve immediately!